A few flaws, but Padanaram grill satisfies

Black Bass Grille

Casual Dining

address: 3 Water St., South Dartmouth.

hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-4:50 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; dinner, 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday; Sunday brunch, 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m., lunch, 2-4:50 p.m., and dinner, 5-9 p.m. Closed Monday.

handicapped access: Yes.

credit cards: Yes.

reservations: No.

Phone: (508) 999-6975

online: www.blackbassma.com

food: 3.5 stars

Service: 3.5 stars

Atmosphere: 3 stars

Cleanliness: 4 stars

Price/Value: 4 stars

Quite a while had passed since Loring and I had dined at the Black Bass Grille in Padanaram, which was taken over about a year ago by Matthew Rooney, former manager of the Kinsale Inn.

We decided to check out this harborside spot Saturday night, even though the gloomy, cool weather assured us that we would not be choosing to dine outside.

When we entered the cozy restaurant, a waitress greeted us and said we could choose any table we liked. While there certainly was not going to be a beautiful sunset to admire, we have chosen a table near the window and west near the bar. A table at the back of the room would have been a better choice in terms of decibels.

Tables, bistro-style, are decorated with butcher paper on cloth. An oil lamp cast a warm glow, and a peony silk double added a touch of color. The chairs, we learned over the course of the evening, are not hospitable for lengthy stays.

Creamy yellow walls provide a backdrop for a number of handsome photographs of what appear to be SouthCoast scenes. Music competed with the conversation, and a baseball game was on the muted TV behind the bar.

To toast Saturday night, I had a glass of 14 Hands Merlot from Washington ($7). Loring asked about available rums, and the waitress didn't have the information at the tip of her tongue, but said she'd ask. Another waitress came to the table and described some new types available from Angostura (the bitters people), so Loring tried their light rum with tonic and lime ($5).

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A few flaws, but Padanaram grill satisfies

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